Björn Frantzén wows Dubai with FZN

If there is one place where imagination is the only limit, it’s Dubai. Money seems endless in the emirate, where one spectacular skyscraper after another rises up. This is especially true in the hospitality sector, and one of Dubai’s first truly spectacular hotels is Atlantis The Palm, located on the artificial palm-shaped island of Jumeirah. The five-star hotel, which opened in 2008, boasts an astonishing 1,548 rooms and suites and includes the world’s largest outdoor water park, Aquaventure, an enormous indoor aquarium, and about 30 restaurants, ranging from the famous Japanese chain Nobu to the Michelin-starred and a variety of high-end Middle Eastern eateries.

In late 2024, however, the hotel launched its most ambitious restaurant project to date when it opened FZN. Run by Swedish chef Björn Frantzén, they could not have asked for a better chef de cuisine: In 2018, his Stockholm restaurant, Frantzén, earned three Michelin stars; just 3 years later in 2021, his restaurant, Zén, in Singapore repeated that feat. In addition, the Frantzén Group also includes in Bangkok, the Brasserie Astoria in Stockholm (and a second location in Marbella due this year), as well as in Dubai, alongside FZN.

Frantzén himself is enthusiastic about the opening: "Atlantis The Palm first approached us years ago, and it has been an exciting process leading up to the opening. We have high ambitions for this restaurant, which Atlantis The Palm has invested quite a lot of money into."

Making a difference

The star chef states that FZN will end his gourmet restaurant expansion. If new ones are to come, others will have to close, though it is unlikely that any of his popular restaurants will be shutting down soon. Dubai has been criticized—especially in the Nordic countries—for its values and laws, which do not align with most European sentiments. However, Frantzén prefers to engage and make a difference rather than point fingers and critizise.

"We always evaluate a country before choosing to open a restaurant there. We also have a principle that we only open in countries that collaborate with the Swedish government. Dubai has come a long way in recent years, and we want to contribute to that development. You can either sit on the bench or get on the field and try to make a difference," says the former AIK Stockholm football player. He proudly adds that "we have introduced equal pay for men and women, and we have several women in leadership positions at both our Dubai restaurants. We also adhere to labor regulations, ensuring that no one works more than five days a week."

Culinarily, the restaurant opens with a menu nearly identical to its Stockholm counterpart, but Björn Frantzén hopes that FZN will gradually develop a more local touch. "The first menus are set, but the plan is definitely for Middle Eastern influences to appear here and there. Initially, we need to settle in, and then we will add new elements over time, as I love Middle Eastern cuisine," he says.

A Danish chef at the helm

Björn Frantzén has travelled to Dubai frequently in preparation for FZN's opening, but he will not be running the kitchen himself. For that role, he has handpicked the renowned Danish chef Torsten Vildgaard, who has played a key role at Noma on several occasions. "Torsten is a fantastic chef and a great leader. He is very calm, and I have no doubt that he is the right man for the job. He has spent an entire year sourcing the right ingredients while also assembling his team," says  Frantzén.

Is anyone home?

It’s time to experience what awaits guests at FZN. We press the door button beside the elegant wooden door, which is quickly opened by a staffer who welcomes us inside and directs us to the elevator for the evening’s first stop. We exit into a stunning corridor lined with wooden shelves filled with various delicacies. At the end, another door opens, revealing a cozy lounge where Nordic minimalism is combined with playful sculptures and artwork. The first round of snacks is served, giving us the chance to meet Torsten Vildgaard, who is, of course, present on opening night.

The meticulous precision that Frantzén’s other restaurants are known for is evident at FZN, where every dish is beautifully and carefully presented. A small choux pastry filled with brillat-savarin and langres cheese is delicate and comforting, while a blini topped with sashimi of shima-aji, pomelo, and jalapeño stands out with its intense flavor combinations. Next is Frantzén’s iconic interpretation of Swedish råraka, a crispy potato cylinder filled with vendace roe and topped with pickled red onions.

Exquisite ingredients

After an immaculately plated tart of truffles, Jerusalem artichoke, and apples, we are invited into the kitchen , where a stunning marble counter awaits. Our waiter slides open a panel, revealing the evening’s fresh ingredients. The langoustines are still alive, the marbled tuna belly glistens invitingly, and the colorful citrus fruits shine.

The evening unfolds with a dazzling array of dishes, from chawanmushi topped with smoked cecina and generous amounts of caviar to king crab in a saffron-infused beurre blanc with sea buckthorn oil. Each course is a masterpiece, culminating in a decadent French duck dish with foie gras, vanilla-infused sauce, and kampot pepper.

Sipping coffee alongside a selection of petit fours, our table of seasoned gourmands quickly reaches a consensus— FZN has instantly secured its place among the world’s elite restaurants.

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